Update!
Cookie removal didn't help
glibc was weird.
So for SOME REASON /etc/localtime was set to an alias and pointed to /usr/share/zoneinfo/America/Los_Angeles (which isn't WRONG really but anyway)
I removed that and reinstalled glibc, and now it's outputting properly. Preliminary testing with Zenphoto shows this solves the issue.
So with both a fix AND a workaround, I think this just needs to be documented under "Weird stuff"
[quote]So for SOME REASON /etc/localtime was set to an alias and pointed to /usr/share/zoneinfo/America/Los_Angeles (which isn't WRONG really but anyway)
[/quote]
I suppose that PHP is not handling the alias then. Certainly nothing wrong with the time zone. That is the one I am in after all.